There are a handful of Mjolnir models out there and it can be kind of confusing. In a nutshell there are three main kinds of Mjolnir; the standard, the germanium, and the Wildwood.
So let's break this down.
Both the Standard and Germanium Variant are tweaked to what I think would benefit most guitarists. I took the original Klon topology and tweaked it to give it less mids, more low end overall, less gain, and a sweeter top end. Additionally the newer units have ditched the Charge Pump commonly associated with that circuit.
Both the standard and germanium models use this same circuit apart from the diodes. The standard uses a specific diode pair that makes it a great overdrive that isn't as fizzy/fuzzy. The germanium models use NOS Germanium diodes of various types to give the units a softer more compressed gain, but when cranked they get a litter hairier overall, with more top end fizz. It's the classic sound you'd associate with this pedal.
The Wildwood is my attempt to sonically recreate my personal Silver Klon Centaur. We went to great lengths to push the circuit to match this unit, taking values and tweaking them in directions that on paper wouldn't make sense. Hours were spent swapping parts and listening to subtle changes that amounted to a true clone of my pedal. It retains the charge pump, germanium diodes, and all the other things that you'd expect this circuit to have. This pedal is available exclusively through Wildwood Guitars.
Pedals like the Joey Landreth, Mass Street Music GE model, and other permutations of the Mjolnir are mostly based on the Standard Mjolnir circuit. However the PCB/internals can be changed for the enclosure format. These, seemingly, small changes do amount to sonic differences. So, all of that to say... they are all a little different.
The Golden Fleece Fuzz has gone through a few revisions over the years but in a nutshell there are 3 main variants of this circuit. The standard golden fleece, the high road, and the Au-79.
The standard model and the high road are pretty similar from a circuit standpoint. There are some changes for the High Road that give it a different sonic signature. The standard fleece model is a wooly/compressed feeling fuzz that has a definite bloom on the attack of the note. The high road is more immediate in the attack and is more focused and defined. Joey wanted it to feel more like a Silicon Fuzz of yesteryear and it gets that in spades. Both clean up the same and have a very similar EQ.
The AU-79 is an homage to the first fleece I ever made, and is more true to the inspiration of this circuit. The AU has considerably less gain and is smoother on the top end. It's more of an overdrive meets fuzz, even with the guitar volume all way up. This allows the AU-79 to be right at home stacking with other drives, more so than the other models in my opinion. The AU-79 is available exclusively through Mass Street Music.
Great questions. Typically all the Golden Fleece variations, the Cestus, the Hephaestus and the 210 Double Drive need to be before buffers. It doesn't necessarily have to be first in the chain but before a buffered pedal or stand alone buffer is best.
All of our other models work well anywhere and I've never ran into a problem putting other pedals later in the chain. Even fuzzes like the Argo tend to work anywhere.
I prefer the Argonaut after fuzzes but before drives. But! That's just my taste. Experiment and see what works best for you.
So sometimes our footswitches can pop. I, Zach, have been hesitant to switch to a soft touch system and because of that we use an old school 3PDT Footswitch. That switch can sometimes pop when you engage the pedal.
The majority of the time it's discharging voltage from the caps, and if you turn the pedal on and off a handful of times it will go away. But sometimes it can be outside issues, cables, power supplies, etc. We have had many pedals sent back for popping and we cannot replicate it. Unfortunately it's hard to prepare for every situation. So the best thing to do is crank up and rock out and embrace the pop.
While we build our pedals to withstand big voltages not every unit can handle more than 9 volts. We have changed construction methods over the years and sometimes older units are really just made for 9 volts only. We find it best to only use 9 volts with Mythos Pedals. If you have a very specific question you can email us and ask, but NEVER plug in an 18 volt supply unless you know it can handle it or you will kill your pedal.
We have used a handful of different supplies over the years but our go to supplies have always been voodoo lab, ciocks, and true tone.
I've found that strymon supplies don't play with some of our fuzzes. So YMMV with those.
Please visit our repair page and reach our to us there. We give a list of steps to follow before reaching out. Ultimately we will take of you if there is an issue and it can be repaired.